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October 2018: Getting Back to Training After First Ever Finger Injury


Week 1 (10/1/18)
Current Weight : 154.8 (ideal climbing weight 145-150)
10/2
  • DBC - Easy Bouldering V3-V6  (2 hours) 
    • My finger felt very good, first session of climbing without any pain.
10/3
  • 10 Minutes of Pull-ups = 107 (it has been months since I have done this work out)
  • 6 Sets: 10 seconds in a TRX Y Fly Plank with a band between my hands
  • 6 sets: 5 Front Lever Pulls with an added 10# angle weight
  • 3 Sets: 30 secs Frog Stretch
10/4
  • DBC - Easy Bouldering V4-V6  (1.5 hours) 
  • 10 Minutes of Pull-ups = 124
  • 10 pound medicine ball single arm toss & catch  6 sets of 8 catches per hand
10/5
  • 10 Minutes of Pull-ups = 133
  • TRX Core Work 2 sets with 1 m rest in-between reps
    • TRX Oblique Crunches - 1 minute
    • TRX Planks - 1 minute
    • TRX Reverse Crunches - 1 minute
10/6
  • 6 Sets: Ab Roller 10 reps
  • 5.6 mile easy run
  • Weighed pull-ups: 6 sets w/ 60# added. (13, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8)
  • 15 pound medicine ball single arm toss & catch  3 sets of 6 catches per hand




      Week 2 (10/8/18)
      Current Weight : 154.8 (ideal climbing weight 145-150)

          

        10/7

        • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (2.5 hours) 
        • 6 Sets: Ring Dips – 5 reps

        10/8   

        • REST

        10/9      
        • Weighed pull-ups: 3 sets w/ 60# added. (15, 15, 15)
        • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (2 hours) 
        • 6 sets: 1 arm lock off 90 degrees 2 reps of 5 sec RT & LT switch
        • 3 sets: Row Reaches with 10 # in reach hand.

        10/10

        • Rest

        10/11

        • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (2.5 hours)

        10/12

        1.5 hours of Spin class with my wife . . .  easy riding.

        10/13

        • Weighed pull-ups: 5 sets w/ 60# added. (10, 10, 13, 11, 10)

        10/14

        • RJ2 – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (2 hours) 
        • Campus Boulders: 5 sets of 3 laps
        • Controlled Individual Leg Lift Circuit at RJ; 6 sets 5 lifts per leg
        • Ring Dips: 3 Sets
        • Stretching Routine
          • Box Split: 4 sets of 30 seconds
          • Butterflies: 4 sets of 30 seconds
          • Hip Flexors Stretches: 4 sets of 2 reps (left & right) 30 seconds each
          • High Steps: 4 sets of 2 reps (left & right) 30 seconds each
        Week 3 (10/15/18)
        Current Weight : 161 (ideal climbing weight 145-150)

        10/15

        • Weighed pull-ups: 3 sets w/ 70# added. (10, 10, 9)
        • Weighed pull-ups: 5 sets w/ 90# added. (4, 4, 5)
        • Stretching Routine
            • Box Split: 4 sets of 30 seconds
              • Butterflies: 4 sets of 30 seconds
                • Hip Flexors Stretches: 4 sets of 2 reps (left & right) 30 seconds each
                  • High Steps: 4 sets of 2 reps (left & right) 30 seconds each

                10/16

                • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V8  (3 hours)

                10/17

                • Weighed pull-ups: 3 sets w/ 90# added. (4, 5, 5, 6, 5)
                • Maintenance Hangboard  4 sets of 3 – 10 sec hangs w/ 1 minute rest

                10/18

                • Work out at Ninja Nation

                10/19

                • Rest

                10/20

                • Rest

                10/21

                • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (45 minutes)
                • DBC – Bouldering V8-V9+  (2.5 hours)

                10/22

                • REST

                10/23

                • DBC – Controlled Bouldering V4-V6  (20 minutes)
                • DBC – Bouldering V8-V9+  (2.5 hours) – Only sent one of my projects, H-

                10/24

                • Weighed pull-ups: 5 sets w/ 60# added. (12, 12, 12, 12, 12)